Art Deco Rolleicord 1

My Rolleicord 1

Some cameras look so amazing that you consider them more of a work of art than a mechanical piece of metal and glass that takes photos. That was my thought the first time I saw the Rolleicord 1. While the Rolleicord 1 is a fairly plain camera, it's the "skin" that gives it a "wow" factor.

 It's the same feeling I had when I saw cameras like the cameras designed by Walter Teague, like the Kodak Beau Brownies, The Petite Coquette, and the Gift Kodak. They are more of something you'd see in a museum rather than take out and take photos with.

 It has more to do with the Art Deco era; these items were manufactured in, and along with the pride in artistry, the companies had to present something to their audience than we currently have. The fact that a camera company in the 1930s would introduce a new line of cameras with such a striking appearance is a bold statement and a testament to the Rollei name.

The History:

Rollei holds a significant place in photographic history. Founded in 1920 in Braunschweig, Germany, by Paul Franke and Reinhold Heidecke, the company originally bore the name "Franke & Heidecke." Initially, it focused on precision mechanical devices, but by the mid-1920s, Rollei began producing cameras that would revolutionize photography.

 Rollei gained international recognition in 1929 with the launch of the Rolleiflex, the first twin-lens reflex (TLR) camera. The Rolleiflex was compact, robust, and designed for medium-format photography. Its unique twin-lens system featured one lens for viewing and focusing and another for capturing the image on film. This innovative design allowed photographers to frame shots at waist level, making candid photography more discreet and practical. The Rolleiflex quickly became a favorite among professionals and enthusiasts, particularly for portrait and documentary work.

The success of the Rolleiflex led to the introduction of the Rolleicord, a more affordable version aimed at amateur photographers. Both models showcased Rollei's commitment to precision engineering and optical excellence, which became hallmarks of the brand.

 During the 1930s and 1940s, Rollei continued to innovate, refining the Rolleiflex and Rolleicord lines with features such as automatic film winding and improved optics. Despite the challenges of World War II, the company maintained its reputation for high-quality cameras. In the post-war era, Rollei played a significant role in the resurgence of the German camera industry.

French ad for Rolleicord 1

The 1950s and 1960s marked a golden age for Rollei. The Rolleiflex TLR became synonymous with professional photography and was used by renowned photographers such as Richard Avedon, Diane Arbus, and Vivian Maier. Rollei also ventured into other formats and technologies. The Rolleiflex 35mm SLR, introduced in the late 1950s, showcased the company's adaptability to the changing market demands.

By the 1970s, the rise of Japanese camera manufacturers like Nikon, Canon, and Minolta introduced intense competition. These companies offered high-quality single-lens reflex (SLR) cameras at more affordable prices, challenging Rollei's dominance in medium-format and professional photography.

In response, Rollei diversified its product line, introducing the Rolleiflex SL66, a medium-format SLR, and the compact Rollei 35, which became one of its most miniature 35mm cameras. Despite these innovations, Rollei struggled to maintain its market share due to its higher production costs and its competitors' rapidly advancing technology.

 In the 1980s and 1990s, Rollei faced financial difficulties, leading to changes in ownership and restructuring. The company shifted focus to digital imaging and niche markets, including high-end studio cameras and digital backs for medium-format systems.

The Rollei legacy endures as a symbol of German engineering and innovation, reflecting a century of dedication to the art and science of photography.

My Camera:

The Rolleicord 1 was made between 1933 and early 1936, with 32,508 units sold. The camera is nickel-plated and decorated with a trompe-l'oeil grid on all sides except the bottom, giving it its unique look. In 1934, Franke & Heideke produced a version of the camera without the beautiful pattern finish and covered the body in drab black leather, which was the Rolleicord 1, model 2.

 My Rolleicord 1 is 5.25" tall with the chimney closed and 8" tall with the chimney up, by 4" deep, by 3.5" wide, including the focus knob. It weighs 1 lb, 15.4 oz, so just under 2 lbs. The serial number on the camera is 029789, which is stamped into the body with the back door opened. The camera has a Carl Zeiss Jena Triotar 7.5cm f4.5 lens in a Compur shutter. 

The shutter speeds range from 1/300 to 1 sec., along with "B" and "T" settings. For transparency purposes, my shutter isn't in the best condition and only works on the top three speeds (1/300, 1/100, 1/50 sec.). It doesn't close if I use any of the slower speeds. The shutter speeds are set by turning the collar around the lens to the desired shutter speed, which is indicated by a triangle. 

 The camera's aperture setting ranges from f4.5 to F32. A pointing triangle and a separate collar on the other side of where you set the shutter speed determine the aperture setting.

 To cock the shutter, you slide the bar under the lens to the right as you're holding the camera to take a photo. With the same lever, you slide the lever to the left to take the photo. There aren't separate levers for cocking the shutter and tripping the shutter. It's all done with the same bar. Me, I like that, so you're not looking to cock the shutter in one area and take the photo in a different area. Very smooth and easy. There is also a socket for a cable release on the bottom of the shutter at approximately the 7 o'clock position.

To load the camera with film, simply pull the back release on the bottom of the camera, and the back will swing open. To take the empty spool of 120 film from the bottom chamber, you'll need to pull out the film knob on the right, which will allow you to take the empty spool out of the camera. 

 Pulling out the winding knob will allow you to put the empty spool in the top portion of the camera to advance the film to the next frame. Press the winding knob to keep the empty film spool in place. Put the new roll of film into the bottom chamber and press back in the film knob to keep the roll in place.

 Once you have the empty spool on the top and the new roll of film on the bottom, remove the tape that keeps the roll closed, pull the leader over the bottom and top roller, and slide the film's end into the take-up spool slot. Wind the film onto the take-up spool with the advance knob until you see an arrow pointing to the ends of the film. At this point, you can close the back door and wind the film to your first frame.

The frame counter on the left side of my camera body isn't working. Luckily, on the bottom of the camera, there is a red window you can use to see when you're in the first frame. Unfortunately, this numbering system on the film rolls is used for 6x9 format, so using this method, I only got eight images on a roll of 120 film instead of the standard twelve for 6x6 format cameras.

 To focus on your subject, pull up the chimney by slightly pulling back the release on the back of the chimney, and pull up, which will expose the large focusing screen. On the right side of the camera is the focusing knob. The focusing distance is from 0.8 meters to infinity. Turn the focusing knob to bring your subject into focus on the screen.

A fine focus magnifier on a spring rests on the back of the chimney. Bring the magnifier around to the top of the viewfinder. Mine stays in place, allowing the photographer to bring their eye closer to the magnifying glass for fine focus. When not using the fine focus magnifier, it can be swung back to the back of the finder so you can see the full image on the focusing screen. You can also slide the front portion of the chimney back and use the chimney as a sport finder if needed.

Exposure index and depth of field scale on back of the Rolleicord 1 camera.

On the back of the camera is an exposure guide and depth of field scale. This scale was produced in German, French, and English for the different markets. My guide on the back is in German. According to the Rolleicord 1 manual, the exposure guide is rated for DIN 26, which would be ASA/ISO 320

 

My Results:

It's in the northwest United States in early January, which means very little sunshine. So I loaded up the camera with some 400 ISO film and walked around the neighborhood to see what I could get from this Rolleicord 1 camera. Knowing I only had the top three speeds to work with, this wasn't too much of an issue as the sun was generally behind clouds most of the day; it wasn't that dark out, and it typically shows between 1/300 and 1/100 shutter speed.

 Here are some of the results from my Rolleicord 1 camera.

Conclusion:

WOW!!! What a fun camera to shoot with. I forget how much I enjoy shooting with a TLR camera. It reminds me of my wedding shooting days many years ago. Looking down at your subjects and seeing such a nice big image brings back many good memories.

Even though the Rolleicord was made for amateur photographers, the lens is fantastic, easy to use, and excellent Rollei camera quality. I only had to keep reminding myself that when you see something going right in the finder, you need to turn left. If something comes into the frame on the right, it is really on the left in real life. I like the ability to keep things square, and while I prefer a panoramic format, having a square image is interesting and gives a new perspective.

 Thank you for taking some time from your day to read about this fantastic camera.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Zeh Zeca-Flex Camera

This camera combines the compactness of a folding camera with the quality and handling of a twin-lens reflex camera. The Zeh Zeca-Flex is just the camera mentioned above, and I've had my eye on it for many years. However, the rareness and price have always eluded me until I went into a great used camera store in Salt Lake City, UT, Acme Camera.

 The first time I went into Acme Camera, they were in their older location, and the store was filled with photo knickknacks. I struck up a conversation with the people there who were selling used gear, servicing cameras, and renting for the local photo community. On my second visit, back in one of the cases was the Zeca-Flex I currently have. The camera was in excellent condition, with clean optics and a working shutter. I offered a trade for the camera, and they accepted. I was elated to have the camera so I could do a blog article on my Zeca-Flex.

History:

In the early 1900s, around 1901-1902, Paul Zeh produced camera parts like shutters in his workshop in Dresden for some of the other local camera companies in Germany. In 1913, he started producing cameras, and by 1922, the company Paul Zeh Kamerawerk was started. In the early years, the company mainly produced folding plate cameras or cameras that took images on glass plates, which was very common at that time period.

During the 1920s, the company did very well. At this time in photo history, roll film was starting to become more popular. The photographer or photo enthusiast didn't need to carry bulky film holders. All the photographer needed to do was put in a roll of film and get 8, 10, 12, or 16 different photos on the same roll of film without the hassle or inconvenience of loading and carrying the film holders. 

The Pilot Reflex camera, produced in 1931 by Kamera-Werkstätten Guthe & Thorsch in Dresden, has a very similar style and appearance to the Perfekta and the Super Perfekta; you can see a review by Mike Eckman of the Pilot.

 During the late 1920s and 1930s, the company expanded production into folding roll film cameras. These cameras were more compact and allowed the photographer to travel with less equipment, so their popularity grew.

 By 1937, Zeh produced the Zeca-Flex, a folding, twin-lens reflex camera. Its design is very similar to that of the Welta Perfekta, which was produced in the 1933-34 timeframe, and the more robust Super Perfekta introduced in 1935. The Perfekta and Super Perfekta were made by Welta Kamera Werk, which was in Freital, a very close town to Dresden. 

I'm confident Zeh wanted to compete with Welta on this camera style. Unfortunately, this camera style didn't catch on with consumers. Hence, with all three cameras, the Perfekta, Super Perfekta, and Zeca-Flex were the only cameras made and are rare and somewhat expensive.

 WWII took a toll on Dresden as the Allies leveled the city due to its large manufacturing capabilities. By 1948, the Zeh plant closed, and the company went out of business. My guess is that some of the Russian companies took some of the camera manufacturing machines to produce some of the after-war cameras. This is just my guess, though.

 

My Camera: 

The condition of my Zeca-Flex is unusually excellent for a camera that is almost 90 years old. The metal is still shiny, and all the functions move like when the camera was first purchased in the late 1930s.

 The camera measures 7.5" long without the light hood open. When the light hood is open, it measures 9.25" tall. The Zeca-Flex is 3.75" wide and closed; it's 2.5" from the front of the viewing lens to the rear of the camera. When the camera is open, it measures 4.75". The Zeca-Flex weighs 2lb—5.2 oz.

The lens on my Zeca-Flex is a Schneider Xenar 7.5cm (75mm) f 3.5 in an F. Deckel Compur Rapid shutter. The shutter speeds go from 1/400 to 1 sec with both "T" and "B" settings. Since I don't have a proper shutter tester, all the shutter speeds sound accurate to my trained ear. The viewing lens is a Sucher Anistigmat f2.9 lens.

To open the camera, there is a small button on the left side as you hold it to take a photo. Press that small button in, and the lens door unlocks. On my camera, you need to pull out the lens to put it into the taking position. There are knurled grips on the sides of the lens door to pull the lens out. Also on the lens door is a flip-out stand that allows you to stand the camera up, which is very common in folding cameras.

Note the small button on the side of the camera used to open the lens.

To close the lens, there are two buttons on either side of the backdoor. You press in towards the camera body, then slide the lens back into it and close it until you hear the locking "click" sound, which means the lens is back and locked in the camera body.

 On the back of the light hood, there is a sliding bar you slide over to open the light hood for viewing purposes, and on the side of the light hood is a switch you can flip up or down the magnifying glass for critical focusing.

There is a latch at the top of the back door, which you slide up to open the film door to load and unload film. In my camera, there is a roll film holder you put the roll of film into before putting it into the camera. The film holder is something I've never seen before, and on the first roll, I needed to figure out which way the film rolled across the shutter, but it was easy to figure out. Now that I've done it, it makes sense, and I won't have difficulty in the future.

 The frame counter resets to number 1 when I close the back of my camera, or at least it was there when I put film in it. There is a button on top of the frame counter. When I slide that button over, the frame counter goes to number 5, so my guess is that isn't correct. I can't find an instruction manual for this camera online, so I'm not 100% sure of the correct way to get maximum frames from the camera. 

There is a red window on the back, which I'll use in the future, as I did miss a few frames at the beginning of the roll when I shot with it. The film advance is on the bottom of the camera and is directly tied into the frame counter, whether you have film in it or not. The frame spacing on my camera was good once I got to the first frame and used the frame counter to find the next frame.

 To focus the lens, as you hold the camera to take photos, there is a wheel next to the viewing lens. I rolled my finger across it one way or the other to achieve proper focus, which was the easiest and made the most sense to me.

This is the focusing wheel. I used my finger to slide back and forth to focus.

Results:

Now that I had a roll of film in the camera, I took it out and walked around the neighborhood to get some photos.  Here are some pictures I took on my walk with the stunning Zeca-Flex camera.

 

Conclusion:

The viewfinder wasn't the brightest, and achieving good focus was difficult even with the magnifying glass up. Another negative about using the camera is where the shutter release is placed. There is no shutter release button, so you need to cock the shutter and then release it with the shutter release button, which is in an awkward place and thought my finger would be in the photo, but it wasn't.

Besides these two items, the camera was a joy to shoot with, and I feel lucky that my camera is in such good condition. I will use it again, but I'm putting it back on the shelf and trying something different for next week's blog post.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes to review some of the cameras in my collection.

 Please be safe, and I hope to hear from you soon.

Bolsey-Flex Trio Camera

As I was sitting at my desk a few weeks back as I was figuring out what camera to write about next, I looked down at a box of cameras I have in my office, and on top was the Bolsey Flex Trio, which is in the box and complete with the instructions. As I started putting together my thoughts about the camera, I had to pull out the camera, and many different ideas came into my mind.

My Bolsey-Flex Camera & Instructions

My Bolsey-Flex Camera & Instructions

The camera for its age isn't in great shape but does work. The camera uses 120 size film, which is a HUGE benefit to me since the film is so readily available. I decided to load a roll of Black and White film in it to shoot as I walked through my neighborhood. I processed the film and was somewhat impressed by the Bolsey-Flex. It's a Pseudo Twin Lens Reflex camera, which means it looks and feels like a TLR camera but works more like a Box Camera due to its simplicity.

Camera Research

I was researching the camera, only to find that a friend of mine, a brilliant writer and camera collecting blogger, Mike Eckman did a blog post on the same camera just a few months ago, which you can read here. With that said, Mike has quite a bit of information on the designer, Jacques Bogopolsky, and camera companies he worked for. The famous movie camera, Bolex, was named after Jacques Bogopolsky, and he also designed cameras for Pignons S.A., the original company that made Alpa Cameras.

For my blog post, I want to concentrate on the experience of using the camera, the image quality, and my overall thoughts on how such a beautifully designed camera handles out in a natural shooting environment. I want to offer a few facts on the camera in general. The camera is an all-aluminum cast body with beautiful light green coverings. In the box comes all you need to take the camera out into the world to take photos.

The Camera

The camera measures 4.75" tall without the viewfinder in the closed position and 6" with the finder in the "up" position. The camera is 3.75" wide, which includes the width of the knobs. It is 3.75" deep, including the lens in the focused to the closest focused position, and 3.5 with the lens focused to infinity. The Bolsey-Flex incorporates an elementary zone focusing lens which can focus from 5 feet to infinity. The focus on the camera is strictly a "guess focus" style. While this is a Psuedo TLR camera, the top lens does nothing more than frame the photo in the camera. There is no focusing capability when looking through the viewfinder.

On the Bolsey-Flex shutter, you have the capability of "I" for an instant, which shoots the shutter at 1/50th of a second shutter speed, and "T" for a time exposure. The camera does have a synchronized shutter which couples with the flash attachment. The camera also has an 80mm lens with three aperture settings, F7.7, f11, and f16. 

The flashgun takes 2-"AA" batteries to power the Type No.5 flashbulbs that fit the top. You unscrew the bottom of the flashgun to put the batteries into it. It would be best if you took the camera case off the camera to use the flash. The flashgun fits into the camera synchro port, which is below the lens and held by the screw that holds the case into place. When you trip the shutter, the camera sends a signal to the flashgun, which fires the flashbulb. 

My unit seems to be in good working condition. Unfortunately, I didn't have bulbs when I loaded the camera with film and did all my shots outdoors. It would have been fun to shoot with bulbs. I'll need to test another camera that uses a flashbulb in a future post, not that I have some bulbs to try.

To load film into the camera, there is a knob on the left side of the camera with "Open," Close" on it. Turn the knob to "open," and the top of the back swings down open to load the film into the camera. Nothing special here as the. Put the empty spool on the top and film onto the bottom area. The shutter won't fire until the winding lever is turned to advance the film. On the back of the camera is the red window with a sliding cover to see when the film is advanced to the following frame number.

 Images

Here are some of the images I took with the Bolsey-Flex camera.

Rocks

Rocks

Backyard Aspen

Backyard Aspen

Evergreen Tree

Evergreen Tree

Dogwood

Dogwood

Conclusion

I thought the camera did a very excellent job for a pseudo-TLR camera. It's not much more than a glorified box camera. The camera was easy to hold, the exposures were good, thanks to my sunny 16 rule when exposing to sunlight. The lens vignettes a bit, but I enjoy that. The ease of operation and see the frames in the red window when advancing were spot on. I'd recommend this very well-built camera to anyone.

 Thank you for taking some time to look over this post. Until next time, please be safe.