Zeiss Kolibri-The Hummingbird

My Zeiss Kolibri Camera

The Zeiss Kolibri, which means "Hummingbird" in German, has always been a camera I wanted for my collection. I liked it mainly because it's very sleek and petite and resembles a 35mm camera, but its main attraction was its use of a larger 127 film size. The camera was built only for a few years, from 1930 through 1932, but I've seen ads for it through 1935.

 I had the opportunity to purchase one when I visited an antique store while on a trip to Minneapolis a couple of years ago. Still, I didn't pull the trigger to buy it, and ever since that trip, I've regretted it, so when I noticed an online auction for a few of the Zeiss Kolibri cameras come up for auction, I jumped on the opportunity and bid on two. At first, I thought these were different years of production, one being older than the other. One is more worn and used than the other. Both have the "cane," which keeps the camera upright, and both are in working condition.

 I won the cameras in the auction for a fair price, including the auction house commission and shipping fees. When the cameras arrived, I was pleased to see both in good working condition. One of the cameras seemed well used, and the other needed the aperture scale indicator, something I didn't notice when I bid on the items. Still, overall, I was pleased with the purchase and wanted to take one of the cameras out to see how it would perform.

History:

The story of Zeiss cameras is deeply intertwined with the evolution of optical technology and the art of photography. Founded in 1846 by Carl Zeiss in Jena, Germany, the company began as a precision mechanics and optics workshop. While its early focus was microscopes, the company's commitment to innovation soon extended to camera lenses and photographic equipment, establishing Zeiss as a pioneer in the optical and photographic industries.

The two Kolibri cameras purchased

 In the late 19th century, Zeiss gained prominence for its advancements in lens manufacturing. In collaboration with physicist Ernst Abbe, the company introduced revolutionary optical theories that improved lens quality and design. This partnership led to the creation of the Zeiss Anastigmat lens in 1889, which minimized distortions and chromatic aberrations, setting new standards for photographic lenses.

First Zeiss Logo

As photography gained popularity in the early 20th century, Zeiss partnered with other manufacturers to produce complete cameras. In 1926, Zeiss joined forces with several German camera companies to form Zeiss Ikon, consolidating its leadership in the industry. Zeiss Ikon cameras, like the Contessa-Nettel and the Ikonta, became renowned for their precision engineering and exceptional optics.

 One of Zeiss's most iconic contributions to photography was the Contax series, introduced in 1932 to compete with Leica. The Contax cameras were known for their innovative designs, including using a rangefinder system and superior Zeiss lenses like the Sonnar and Biotar. These cameras quickly became favorites among professionals and enthusiasts for their sharpness and reliability.

Ad for Zeiss Kolibri camera

During this period, Zeiss also developed a range of lenses that became benchmarks in the industry. The Tessar lens, introduced in 1902, remains one of the most widely used lens designs in photographic history, praised for its sharpness and compact size.

World War II disrupted Zeiss's operations, splitting the company into East and West divisions. The East German division, headquartered in Jena, retained the Zeiss Ikon name, while the West German division, based in Oberkochen, became Carl Zeiss AG. Despite the division, both branches continued producing high-quality photographic equipment.

In the 1950s, Zeiss partnered with Japanese camera manufacturers, most notably Yashica, to produce the Contax series. This collaboration introduced groundbreaking features like TTL metering, which became an industry standard.

 By the late 20th century, Zeiss shifted its focus from producing cameras to developing advanced lenses for various manufacturers. The company collaborated with brands like Sony, Hasselblad, and Nokia, bringing Zeiss optics to a broader audience. In 1996, the Contax G2, a rangefinder camera with autofocus and electronic control, became a cult favorite, blending modern technology with classic Zeiss craftsmanship.

In the digital era, Zeiss continues to push the boundaries of optical technology. Its lenses are widely used in professional photography, cinematography, and even smartphones. The company's commitment to precision, innovation, and excellence defines its legacy.

 From its beginnings in 19th-century Jena to its status as a global leader in optical technology, Zeiss has profoundly shaped the world of photography. Its cameras and lenses have captured countless iconic moments, leaving an indelible mark on history. Today, Zeiss is synonymous with unparalleled optical quality, a testament to over 175 years of innovation and craftsmanship.

My Camera:

My Kolibri camera is 4.5" tall without the viewfinder erected and 5.5" with it erected, by 3" wide and 2" deep without the lens in the taking position and 2.75" with the lens popped out and in the taking position. My camera weighs just over 1 lbs at 1 lbs .6oz. With the viewfinder down and the lens retracted, it's a very compact and sturdy camera that takes 16, 3x4cm images on 127-size film. The Zeiss Kolibri (523/18) has a couple of different lens and shutter combinations. The one I used to take the photos has a Novar Anastigmat 5cm F4.5 lens in a TELMA shutter. The other camera I received has a Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar 5cm F3.5 lens in a Compur shutter. A third model has a Zeiss Biotar 5cm F2 lens. All of the different lens/shutter combinations are in a chrome polished tube that pulls out to take the photos and to retract, grab the "wings" on either side of the lens, turn the lens slightly counter-clockwise, and press the lens back into the camera body. You also grab the "wings" to pull the lens out to take photos.

The Telma shutter has only three shutter speeds, 1/100, 1/50, and 1/25, along with "B" and "T" for timed exposures. The Compur shutter is more extensive, with shutter speeds starting at 1/300, 1/100, 1/50, etc., to 1 sec along with "B" & "T." The shutter release is on the left-hand side with the Telma shutter, and you do not need to cock the shutter; just press the shutter release and the shutter fires. On the Compur shutter, the cocking mechanism is on top of the shutter, and the shutter release is below, so there is a little difference between the two cameras in the shutter and shutter release function.

Telma shutter

On both cameras, the aperture settings are under the lens with a little slide that points to the aperture setting. Focus on both cameras is done by a slider knob on top of the camera, with the closest focus at 1 meter. On the bottom of the ring that has the "wings" on it is a hole that the "cane" or strut fits into to keep the camera upright, with either the lens out or retracted. Using the "cane" is excellent for timed exposures, connecting a cable release to take a timed exposure. There is a cable release socket on both cameras incorporated into the shutter.

The aperture ring is under the lens. The shutter release is on the left, and the self-timer is on the right with a red dot.

To load the film, you slide the knurled knob on the top of the camera in the direction of the arrow to open the back to load and unload the film. Once you open the back, you take the empty spool and put it on the left end, which has the winding knob, then put the fresh roll of film into the film chamber, pull the leader to the empty spool, put the leader into the slot on the reel and turn the winding knob until you see "start" on the film's paper backing. At this point, close the back of the camera and wind until you see the number 1 in the lower of the two windows. Now that you're ready to take your first photo, lift up the front and rear viewfinders so you can frame the image and take your photo.

 Since the camera has two red windows on the camera's back, the spacing between the top and bottom windows is the same as the negative size. You would take the photo once you wind the film so the number 1 appears on the bottom window. Once the photo is taken, wind until you see the number 1 in the top window, then take the picture. After you take the photo with the number 1 on the top window, roll until you see the number 2 on the bottom window and do this through the number 8.

Here's where I had some issues, and it's something I kept in mind when I was done taking the photos. In my small and simple mind, as I was holding the camera in a vertical position, it was in my mind that the camera would take a vertical photo. Unfortunately, that's not the case. If you're holding the camera in the vertical position, the camera is taking a horizontal image due to the orientation of the frame area in the camera. So, the photos I took that should have been horizontal were taken vertically and vice versa. I felt like an amateur when I finished taking the photos, only to realize I did it wrong.

 The viewfinder is tiny, and since I wear glasses, it's challenging to use. Its size also made it difficult to frame the photo accurately. Toward the end of the roll, I would just point the camera at the subject and "guess" on the framing, which seemed pretty good, with the exception of the vertical/horizontal format mishap.

Small viewfinder and glasses do not mix well.

 Once the photos were taken, I unloaded the film and processed them, and they turned out nicely.

 The serial numbers for my two Kolibri cameras are only 40 pieces off. The more well-used version is S.98995, and the Kolibri with the Compur shutter is S.98955, so they were built relatively close to each other. 

 My initial belief was that the camera with the Telma shutter was an older version. I believed that it was an older model because one camera was more used than the other. Now, I realize that the shutter and lens combination would be for a more or less expensive model that the consumer would purchase. If someone wanted the less expensive Telma shutter with a slower lens or the more expensive faster lens and Compur shutter, that made more sense to me.

My Results:

Here are some of the images taken with my more well-used Kolibri camera. I used it because the other camera didn't have the aperture settings, and I would have had to guess at the aperture. That would have been okay, and I'm a pretty good judge of that, as I could have marked on the camera what I thought the aperture setting should be.

Conclusion:

Except for my confusion about the vertical/horizontal format and the camera orientation, it's a fun camera. It is very well made, the photos are nice and sharp, and the camera fits nicely in my pocket when the lens is retracted and the viewfinder is down. As it is compact and sturdy, I can use it more often.

I look forward to shooting more photos with this in the future, but I must remember that when the camera is vertical, it's taking a horizontal photo.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes from your day to read about this gem of a camera. I hope to see you next week when I review another camera from my collection.

 Until next week, please be safe.

 

Hasselblad 1600F Camera

Looking through my collection, I had a couple of different cameras in mind, but they use 127-size film, which I ordered a few days before the intended day to take photos. Unfortunately, the film hasn't arrived in time for me to shoot photographs when the weather is nice and sunny, so I'll put them off for the next blog. 

 As I gazed at the items in my collection, the Hasselblad 1600F caught my eye. I had purchased it many years ago, and the last time I had the pleasure of using it was a couple of years ago. The thought of loading a roll and exercising the focal plane shutter in this early version of the Hasselblad camera filled me with anticipation. 

 I generally use the Zeiss 80mm f2.8 lens on the camera, but looking through some of the lenses I have for this and the 1000F, I do have the Kodak Ektar 80mm f2.8 lens, which was the lens initially sold with the 1600F here in the US, and later the Zeiss 80mm f2.8 was available. For this shoot, I got out a roll of Ilford FP4 125 film, which I loaded into the film back, and I put on the Ektar lens to see how it would work. I was pleasantly surprised.

The Company:

When I think of cameras that have made an indelible mark on the field of photography, Hasselblad undoubtedly comes to mind. They are known for capturing iconic moments on Earth and beyond. Hasselblad cameras are synonymous with precision, durability, and unmatched image quality. At the heart of this remarkable brand is the story of its founder, Victor Hasselblad, and his relentless pursuit of excellence.

Original Swedish Ad for Hasselblad 1600f

 Victor Hasselblad was born in Gothenburg, Sweden, in 1906 into a family with a photography and photographic supplies background. While Victor initially followed in his family's footsteps, he soon developed a desire to innovate and improve upon existing camera technology. At 18, he traveled to Dresden, Germany, to work with the best optical manufacturers of the time, gaining invaluable experience in the technical aspects of cameras and photography. This laid the foundation for his future endeavors and innovations.

 During World War II, Victor's knowledge of cameras caught the attention of the Swedish Air Force. They approached him with a German aerial surveillance camera they wanted to replicate. Victor accepted the challenge and famously responded, "I don't want to make a copy of it—I want to make a better one." This led to the development of the first Hasselblad camera, the HK7, designed explicitly for military aerial photography. Victor's ingenuity soon proved invaluable, and his cameras became crucial tools for aerial reconnaissance.

 After the war, Victor focused on developing cameras for the consumer market. In 1948, the first consumer-oriented Hasselblad, the 1600F, was introduced. This camera was revolutionary for its time, featuring a modular design that allowed photographers to change lenses, viewfinders, and film magazines, making it highly versatile. The 1600F also used medium-format film, which produced images of superior quality compared to 35mm film cameras available at the time. However, the early models faced technical issues, particularly durability, and required further refinement.

Ad for the Hasselblad 1600F

Despite the initial technical issues, Hasselblad was committed to improving its designs. By the 1950s, Hasselblad cameras had developed a reputation for being highly reliable, and photographers worldwide began to take notice. In 1952, Hasselblad introduced the 1000F with an improved shutter and slower maximum speed of 1/1000. The camera also came with a Zeiss 80mm f2.8 lens, marking a significant improvement in the brand's offerings.

 

The subsequent 500C model, released in 1957, solidified Hasselblad's place in the professional photography world. With its leaf-shutter system and modular components, the 500C became a workhorse for studio photographers, renowned for its reliability and image quality. This camera design remained in production, with upgrades, for decades and became the foundation of Hasselblad's success.

 

Hasselblad cameras are most famous for their role in space exploration. In 1962, NASA astronaut Walter Schirra brought a Hasselblad 500C on the Mercury-Atlas 8 mission, sparking a long-standing relationship between Hasselblad and NASA. The camera's build quality, high resolution, and adaptability made it an ideal choice for capturing images in the challenging conditions of space.

Walter Schirra and the Hasselblad 500C

 Hasselblad worked closely with NASA to modify the cameras for space use. The resulting 500EL model was specially adapted for the Apollo missions, where it would ultimately capture some of the most iconic images in history, including the first steps on the moon by Neil Armstrong in 1969. The modifications included [specific modifications], which allowed the camera to function effectively in the challenging conditions of space. To this day, the image of Earth from space, known as the 'Blue Marble,' remains one of the most famous photographs ever taken, and it was captured with a Hasselblad. The brand's involvement in the space program elevated its reputation further and established Hasselblad as a premium name in photography.

 With the arrival of digital photography, Hasselblad continued to innovate, embracing the transition while retaining the high standards that defined its analog cameras. In the early 2000s, Hasselblad launched the H-System, a line of digital medium-format cameras that maintained the quality associated with the brand while integrating advanced digital features. This line set new benchmarks in the industry, offering extremely high-resolution sensors, modular components, and sophisticated imaging capabilities that appealed to professional photographers and high-end studios alike.

 More recently, Hasselblad has also embraced the mirrorless trend, launching the X1D, a compact digital medium-format camera that balances portability with the image quality of medium format. This new direction has helped the brand stay relevant, catering to a new generation of photographers who demand portability without sacrificing image quality.

 Today, Hasselblad remains a symbol of excellence in photography. Known for its attention to detail, superior image quality, and dedication to craftsmanship, Hasselblad has cultivated a loyal following of professional photographers, collectors, and photography enthusiasts. While the digital age has transformed the landscape of photography, Hasselblad continues to adapt and push the boundaries of what is possible, ensuring that its legacy endures.

Victor Hasselblad's legacy is a testament to the power of innovation, and his vision inspires photographers worldwide. From capturing wartime reconnaissance to the moon's surface and beyond, Hasselblad has not only documented history but has become a part of it.

My Camera:

My Hasselblad with the Kodak Ektar 80mm f2.8 lens is 6.5" long by 4.5" wide, including the winding knob, and is 4" tall with the waist level finder closed. The camera weighs in at 2 lbs. 15.9oz. This camera is in excellent condition for being around 75 years old. Hasselblad made this camera with a maximum shutter speed of 1/1600, which was very ambitious for a medium-format camera. There is some minor tarnish on some chrome, a small dent in one of the shutter curtains,  and the leatherette is starting to come loose around the waist level finder, but that seems to be it. It's also important to know that the 1600F and the 1000F use focal plane shutters. After these models, the 500c and model moving forward have leaf shutters in the lenses, not the camera body. The exception was the 2000FC model.

Having owned several different Hasselblad models, the camera operations are similar to mine. The film back on my camera is the older C12 film back. To load the film, you need to take the film back off the camera. Well, you don't need to, but I've always done it. You have to have the dark slide in the slot on the left to remove the film back from the camera. The dark slide in the holder presses a pin within the film back that allows the back to come off. If the dark slide isn't in the film back, you cannot take the back off the camera. To remove the film, on the top of it is a sliding circle with a Hasselblad "V" logo that you slide to the right and pull back down to remove it from the body.

 On the left side of the film back is the lock. Pull up the tab on the lock and turn it counterclockwise until it stops, then pull it away from the film back, and the insert will pull out. The film insert is what you load the film into. With the lock on the left, take the empty film spool from the bottom holder by pulling out the roll holder on a hinge to quickly load and unload the rolls of film. Put the empty spool onto the top. The top has a knurled grip on the hinged holder to wind the film before loading it back into the film back to shoot. Put your fresh roll of film into the lower holding area, pull the paper over the black pressure plate and slide the leader into the empty spool and turn the knurled knob to load the film onto the reel. Keep turning the knob until you see the "start" word on the paper backing. 

 Slide the film into the body portion and lock the back securely into the body. On the right side of the film back is a winding knob. Lift one of the handles and wind. On my film back, which is a C12 back, there is a hinged door where you can see the frame numbers as you turn the winding handle. Open the backdoor, watch for "1" to appear, and stop winding. At this point, turn the winding lever in a counterclockwise motion, and the frame counter under the winding knob will reset to number 1. Put the back onto the camera and prepare for the first photo. As you take photos, the film will advance back in, and you can check the frame counter on the film back to see what frame you're on.

Now that the film is loaded into the camera let's go out and shoot a few frames. Remove the front lens cap to focus the camera and pop up the waist level finder. A smaller "V" Hasselblad logo slider is on top of the waist level finder to open the finder. Slide that to the right, and the waist-level finder will pop open, showing an image you're pointing the camera toward. Turn the focus ring on the lens to get a sharp image. If you want a more critical focus, you can slide the slider to the right again, and a magnifying lens will pop up. You can put your eye closer to the magnifying lens to see an enlarged area of the focusing screen to fine focus on your subject. To close the waist level finder, one by one, flip down the side panels over the focusing screen, then the back panel, and close the top, which will click when closed.

 Before you press the shutter button on the front of the camera in the lower right corner, as you're holding the camera, you need to take out the dark slide from the film's back. The camera will not fire if the dark slide is engaged in the film's back. Be sure the shutter is cocked and ready to shoot. To cock the shutter, there is a large knob on the right side of the camera. Pull out the dark slide and turn that knob in a clockwise motion, or so the knob is going forward. This cocks the shutter. Set the shutter speed, which is on the right side of the camera, on the knob that cocks the shutter. 

 Because this model and the 1000F cameras use a focal plane shutter, it's VERY IMPORTANT: DO NOT SET THE SHUTTER SPEED WITHOUT COCKING THE SHUTTER FIRST. If you do, the camera can jam, and with this and the 1000F models, it's extremely expensive to service and, due to the age, possibly not able to be serviced due to lack of parts.

On my Eastman Kodak Ektar lens, the aperture is entirely manual, meaning you need to open the aperture for focus and then stop down to take the photo. Being used to "automatic" apertures where the aperture closes during exposure and opens after the exposure, it's easy not to remember to stop the lens down before taking the photo. Being one that uses a myriad of different cameras, I'm getting used to checking before, but every once in a while, I forget and need to retake the photo.

 If you want to change the lens on your camera, as you hold the camera, there is a button on the front of the camera in the lower left corner, opposite the shutter release. Press the button and turn the lens in a counterclockwise motion to release the lens and put on a new one. To put on a different lens, line up the red dot on the lens and the red dot on the camera body and turn the lens clockwise until the lens "clicks" into place and is secure on the body.

 Now that you've shot the 12 frames on the roll of film, it's time to take the film out, get it processed, and see how you did. To do so, take the dark slide out of the film back, remove the film back from the camera, open the film chamber, unload the film, and put in a fresh roll to shoot some more.

My Results:

After walking around my block taking photos on a sunny afternoon, I wanted to see how the lens would handle and the image quality it would produce. The lens focuses close, down to 20" from the film plane, so I was able to get in close for detail. Here are the results from the Eastman Kodak Ektar 80mm f2.8 lens.

 

 Conclusion:

I'm a photo nerd. I love using cameras, especially the older mechanical versions. There's something gratifying and calming about having a mechanical camera in my hands. Whether looking through an eye-level or waist-level finder, taking photos is an absolute joy.

 The Ektar 80mm f2.8 lens is terrific. I liked how the focus was fluid and easy to turn, the ease of opening and closing the aperture, and the picture quality was better than expected. The older Ektar lenses are superb, like those on the Ektar 35mm camera.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes out of your day to read about this early Hasselblad camera. I plan to use it for more shoots in the upcoming months.

 Until next week, please be safe.

Reference:

Hasselblad Website: https://www.hasselblad.com/about/history/first-consumer-camera/

Kodak Chevron Camera

A week or so ago, when I was looking for another camera to write about in my weekly camera blog, I looked up on the shelf above my desk, and one camera stood above the rest. Maybe that's because I have it on a small tabletop tripod, and it literally was above many of the other cameras on my shelf. The camera is one of my favorite designs, the Kodak Chevron camera.

My Kodak Chevron camera

 I've owned the Kodak Chevron camera for many years. I remember buying it at a camera show early in my camera collecting years. It caught my eye because the design, along with the look and feel, is just wonderful. The camera is large, striking in design, and a medium-format camera with wonderful optics. 

 The Chevron, produced between 1953 and 1956, mirrors the post-war American era. Its design philosophy echoes the American auto industry of the time, reminiscent of the large, sturdy, and well-crafted automobiles by Chevrolet, Ford, and Cadillac. The Kodak Chevron is a testament to the classic cameras of this era.

The Company:

I don't believe I've ever written about one of my favorite companies. The Eastman Kodak Company, known to many as Kodak, was founded in 1888 by George Eastman, a visionary who revolutionized photography by making it accessible to the general public. Before Kodak, photography was an elaborate and expensive process that required significant expertise. Eastman's innovations in camera design and film processing transformed the photography industry.

A wonderful ad showing the benefits of the Chevron camera

 George Eastman, a former bank clerk in Rochester, New York, initially became interested in photography as a hobby in the late 1870s. Frustrated by the cumbersome process of wet plate photography, which involved heavy equipment and complicated chemical preparations, Eastman sought to simplify the process. In 1880, he patented a dry-plate coating machine, which allowed for the mass production of photographic plates, and soon opened the Eastman Dry Plate Company.

Eastman's breakthrough came when he shifted focus from plates to roll film. In 1884, Eastman and businessman Henry A. Strong, who would later become the company's first president, formed a partnership to expand the business. They developed a flexible roll film, which replaced glass plates that had previously been used. This was a significant innovation because it created simpler, more portable cameras.

 

In 1888, the company launched its first Kodak camera, a compact box camera preloaded with enough film for 100 exposures. The marketing slogan, "You press the button, we do the rest," succinctly captured Kodak's appeal. After taking pictures, customers would send the entire camera back to Kodak for developing and reloading, eliminating the need for users to handle the film or chemicals themselves. This ease of use democratized photography and made it accessible to amateur photographers for the first time.

 Eastman chose "Kodak" because he wanted a distinctive and memorable trademark that was not associated with any existing words. He believed the letter "K" had a solid and unforgettable sound, so he experimented with various combinations of letters before arriving at Kodak.

 Kodak continued to innovate through the late 19th and early 20th centuries, producing increasingly sophisticated 35mm cameras like the Kodak Ektra and Retina lines, along with many medium—and larger-format cameras used during international conflicts. All the while refining its film development processes.

 Eastman built Kodak into a dominant force in the photography industry by introducing flexible film and creating simple, user-friendly cameras.

My Camera:

The Chevron camera is a rather large, heavy, and, some say, "bulky" camera that measures 6.25" wide, by 4.5" tall, by 4"deep, and weighs in at a whopping 2 lbs. 9.9 oz. without film loaded. I like how the camera feels. It's taller and wider than the Medalist, after which this camera was made. The Kodak Medalist is a marvel for its time, but when I hold the Medalist, the body feels too "fat" in my hands, although I do like the 6x9 format the Medalist has, whereas the Chevron is a proper 6x6 square format camera.

Some people discuss cameras in a much more technical manner, which I genuinely enjoy reading. There are times when I don't understand many of the technical "hows and whys," but that allows me to learn new things, which I enjoy. I prefer to talk about using the camera and my personal experiences.

To load the camera, you can open the back from the left or right side, which I like. You can take the whole back off if you want to. The empty spool will go onto the camera's left side, as the film advance lever is on the left. You put the fresh roll on the right, which is counterintuitive for many photographers, but it didn't bother me when using the camera. Before you load the film into the camera, the frame counter is on top of the camera, which you need to set to "N." The camera is supposed to have an automatic film advance stop when the film reaches the next frame. My auto-stop camera wasn't working, so I just used what was normal to me and looked at the red window on the back of the camera to get to the next frame. Here is the Chevron Camera Instruction manual. Thank you, M. Butkus, for your service in supplying manuals.

Now that I have film in the camera, it's time to take photos. To focus the camera on the subject, the rear viewfinder has two windows. The top window is used to frame your subject, and the bottom is to use the rangefinder, which uses a magnified split image to focus on the subject. Both windows are very close together, and for me, who wears glasses was a bit more challenging to use, but once I got used to it, it wasn't difficult. This is the same rangefinder system used in the Medalist and Ektra cameras.

One of the most delightful aspects of this camera is its exceptionally smooth focus ring. It's not so loose that it slips, like some lenses that feel very sloppy. Instead, it's a perfect balance of smoothness and precision, making the process of focusing a joy. It's a testament to the high-quality design and construction of the Kodak Chevron, and it's a feature that I find truly fabulous to use.

It's time to set the shutter speeds and aperture to create the proper exposure. The shutter speeds are located on the far outside ring around the lens. They go from a fantastic speed of 1/800 sec on the top end to "B", going down by half to get the "B" setting, so 1/400, 1/200, 1/100, etc.

The lens is a Kodak Ektar 78mm f3.5 lens. The aperture settings are set by a bar on the bottom of the lens. Sliding the bar over to the next setting is smooth and easy. The setting also has click stops, so there is no getting it if the aperture is set correctly. A visual setting is on the bottom by the bar and on top of the lens, which you can see with a red arrow. The aperture indication is just behind the arm you cock the shutter.

I've yet to make an image, the film advance was very smooth to move the film to the next frame. I would advance the lever four times to get to the next frame. The red window is on the back of the camera to check where you are advancing the film. The red window has a blackout bar, which you slide up to view the film inside. Being right-handed, it was easy to hold the camera, slide the bar up with my right hand, and advance the film to the next frame with my left hand.

One of the advantages Chevron offered was the ability to shoot 828-size films. The 828 film accessory kit consisted of a film mask for 828 film, 2- 828 film spool holders and an 828 spool. This would have been purchased as an accessory. To use the 828 adapter, the photographer needed to do a couple of things to adapt to the film format. First, a switch from the regular 620 to 828 film is on top of the camera. You take a coin and turn the "finder" settings to 828. Then, a switch at the back of the camera changes the viewfinder from the standard 620 film to the smaller 828 film. By using the 828 film, there is a magnification factor of 1.5x.

 

My results:

Recently, at a local camera show, I purchased about 50 rolls of Agfa ISS 620 film, which I have for sale on my eBay store. I wanted to test the film to see how usable it was, so I loaded it into the camera and went to the local farmers market to take photos. Here are some of the results from the camera, along with the film I have for sale.

My Conclusion:

WOW!!!! What a fun camera to use. The camera fits very nicely in my hand; the focus is smooth, and I prefer using it over many of the folders and TLR cameras I've used. The Chevron camera outperformed my expectations. It felt similar to what a Mamiya Seven feels like in your hand. While it didn't have the capabilities of interchangeable lenses or TTL viewing of the Mamiya Seven, the camera handled great. 

 The only downside to this camera is the small viewfinder and rangefinder window. There were times when I was walking around the market and just pre-focused, especially when I wanted to be somewhat inconspicuous when shooting. The light was fairly dim, too, so my shutter speed was generally 1/50, and my aperture was wide open.

 I also understand that due to the low number of cameras made, especially compared to the very popular Medalist and Medalist II cameras, they are selling at a premium price on the used market.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes from your day to read my post on this lovely camera. I plan on shooting with it more often, especially since I have many rolls to shoot with.

 Until next week, please be safe.

 

Kalimar Six Sixty Camera

My posts start in a very similar way. I purchased this camera from an auction site that had a grouping of very common and not-so-interesting items. In the corner of the grouping was the Kalimar Six Sixty camera in its case, along with an eye-level prism finder, which really caught my eye. Looking at the other photos, the camera looked very clean, but there was no information on whether it was working or not. I put in a low price for the lot and actually won. 

My Kalimar Six Sixty w/ case & lens cap

 When the camera items were shipped to me, the camera was in great working condition and cosmetically in great shape, too. The item I was most thrilled to see was the pentaprism for the camera in its original fitted case, which was very clean and in fantastic condition. Being a collector of cameras in different colors, one of the things that drew me to this particular camera was the blue-grey color of the camera and its cases.

 Having been a collector of cameras and photo items for over 50 years, I remember when I first started collecting, and all the different cameras fascinated me. I buy almost any camera initially, then I become more selective as time passes. It's now where I'm very selective about the cameras I purchase. I sold off some of the items in the lot, got my money back, and donated the other items to Goodwill Industries, which is something I do when the items aren't appealing or too familiar for my collection.

Here's where it starts to get fun as well as very incestuous. From all the information I've read, Fujita introduced the Fujita 66ST camera in 1956. The original Fujita had script lettering as a nameplate. Fujita also manufactured the same camera as the Kalimar Reflex, Soligor 66, Haco 66, and the Dutch Fodor 66 camera. Over the years, Fujita has done minor upgrades on different cameras and for other distributors. Most of the enhancements were additions of slower shutter speeds. For example, the Fujita 66SL was released in 1958, and the 1/5 shutter speed was added. The original Fujita shutter speed stopped at 1/25. 

 My camera, the Kalimar Six Sixty, was released in 1963. It is an upgrade to the original Kalimar Reflex, which is an upgraded version of the Fujita 66SL due to the Kalimar having an auto-returning mirror. Fujita added a split-image focusing screen and an interchangeable viewfinder to the Kalimar Six Sixty.

My Kalimar Six Sixty w/Prism finder & cases

The Company:

There are two Fujita companies in Japan with very similar names. Fujita Kōgaku Kikai and Fujita Kōgaku Kōgyō were both photo companies in Japan after WWII. My friend Mike Eckman did a review of the Fujita 66SL ( https://mikeeckman.com/2024/02/fujita-66sl-1958/) and in his article, he wrote about the camera history, which I believe sums it up very well. He said, "Camera-wiki suggests that Fujita Kōgaku Kikai was listed in an 1943 listing of Japanese lens makers, which seems plausible to me as there were a great deal of small companies in Japan making lenses at the time.  We also know that at some time between 1953 and 1954, Fujita Kōgaku Kōgyō began work on a prototype medium format 6×6 SLR.  The difference in the two names Fujita Kōgaku Kikai and Fujita Kōgaku Kōgyō is "Fujita Optical Machinery" versus "Fujita Optical Industry".  I am going to go on a limb here and suggest that either the two companies are exactly the same, and just changed their name, or the original Fujita Kōgaku Kikai was reorganized into a new entity called Fujita Kōgaku Kōgyō.  I think that is going to be the most plausible explanation anyone will be able to find with the resources we have today.

One of the best things about the Fujita/Kalimar/Soligor/Haco/Fodor relation was the lenses used. Fujita must have had a relationship with Heinz Kilfitt, the designer of the Behring Robot Camera and a fantastic lens designer for Alpa and other companies. There are photos of a prototype Kilfitt camera, which is similar to the Fujita cameras back in 1952, so there must have been some relationship, but that's unknown. I know that Kilfitt made lenses with a 42mm thread, which is the mount on these cameras. Kalimar made three lenses for this camera. The standard 80mm f3.5 was later upgraded to an 80mm f2.8, which I have, a wide-angle 52mm f3.5, and short telephoto 150mm f4.

 

My Camera:

My Kalimar Six Sixty is 5.5" tall by 4.5" wide, including the film advance knob, and 6" deep, including the 80mm f2.8 lens. The camera weighs 2lbs 10.1 oz without the fitted case. The accessory viewfinder is 3.25" tall x 4" wide x2.75" deep and weighs 11.4 oz. The Kalimar Six Sixty camera was great fun to use, and as other people have mentioned in their reviews of the camera that you can see online, it's somewhat advanced for its time. I like the auto returning mirror, which you get used to shooting with a 35mm SLR but are not accustomed to when shooting a medium format camera from this era or even on a Hasselblad. Some people call this the poor man Hasselblad. 

You open the back of the camera similarly to how you'd change the film on a TLR camera like Rolleiflex. On the bottom of the camera is a lever you slide over, and the back of the camera lifts up to reveal a large focal plane shutter system and the film loading and take-up areas. Once you load the camera, on the back of the camera, just below the film advance lever, which also has the shutter speed dial inside, is a lever with the word "SET." This resets the frame counter to "0", then you close up the back and wind the film advance knob until it stops and you're at the first frame.

To set the camera's shutter speeds, on the outside of the film advance lever is a black ring that you pull out, and the dial turns to set the shutter speed desired. The shutter speeds go from 1/500, 1/200, 1/100,m1/50, and 1/25 on the main settings. Next to 1/25 is a red dot, similar to cameras like Leica and Nikon rangefinders; you can set the lower shutter speed on a separate dial just under the film advance lever. There, you'll find the shutter speeds of 1/25, which are in red, so both 1/25th speeds need to be set there if you want to use the 1/25 speed. Also on the dial are 1/10 and 1/5. A "B" setting is on the larger shutter speed dial. To the right of the slow shutter speed settings is a tiny window that has the frame number you are on and advances when you wind to the next frame.

Shutter speed setting inside the winding knob. Secondary shutter speeds below and small window for frame counter.

The viewfinder lifts from the sides, exposing the nice split image focusing screen on my camera. To pop up the magnifying glass for critical focusing, slide the chrome switch on the back, which pops it into place and is spring-loaded. Pressing it down and clicking it into position when not in use allows the photographer to view the entire screen for composition.  There is also the ability to use the light hood as a sports finder by sliding the front panel to the right, swinging it up, and flicking the chrome switch to bring up the magnifying glass, which allows the photographer to frame their images similar to a sports finder on other TLR cameras. To take the light hood off and change it to the pentaprism finder, you open the light hood, and it slides off towards the front to remove it. To put on the prism finder, slide the rails on the side of the hood and prism finder into the slot on the camera body and slide it on. Straightforward.

The lenses do not have an automatic aperture, so you need to manually open and close the aperture to focus, then stop the lens down to take the photos. To do so, there is a secondary ring just behind the aperture settings with a big red square. You set your aperture, then slide the rig to the left to open the aperture for focus, then slide the ring back to the right to take the photos. This doesn't bother me, as one of the advantages of this method is that the photographer sees the depth of the field before taking the photo. This, to me, is an advantage when taking my time and setting up shots. Some people may think of it as a hindrance, as the majority of people like taking snapshots and are not too worried about the depth of field or seeing what's actually in or out of focus in their photos.

Now that I have the camera loaded with 125 iso film, I walked through my backyard, taking photos of our plants, animals, and scenes to see how the camera performed. It was a sunny afternoon, and I took out my trusty light meter to get the readings, so I didn't use any speed slower than 1/100, but here are my thoughts as I did so. The camera functioned very well. I liked that the mirror instantly returned, and the shutter was quiet. Sometimes, I questioned if the camera shot as all I felt was the mirror, and I didn't hear the shutter, but it worked on all shots. The focus was difficult and not the brightest to focus. I spent too much time on the split image instead of just looking at the frame and concentrating as usual.

I didn't use the prism finder when shooting the film; instead, I put it on afterward to see how it looked and performed. I have always preferred to shoot from the waist using a medium format, but it worked well, especially in the sunlight. The open/close aperture was fine, as I used to do it with many other older cameras. At least I remembered to open/close it. I remember when I first tried cameras with manual aperture, I'd get frustrated because I'd forget to open to focus and get upset thinking, "Why is it so dark?" Then, remember to open/close the aperture manually.

 My results.

Here are a few of the wonderful results from my Kalimar Six Sixty camera as I walked my backyard. There are some excellent images.

Conclusion.

I liked using this camera. It was easy to handle, and the camera was smaller than a Hasselblad or other medium-format cameras. The optics are excellent, and other than the manual aperture or very bright viewfinder, the camera handled well and produced nice images. I also like the look of the camera and its styling. I did have some familiarity with this as I've owned a few in the past, mostly the Kalimar Reflex, and I also have a Soligor on my eBay site for sale if you're interested.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes to read my blog post. It means a lot to me, and I hope you'll do so again next week when I pull out another oddity from my collection to write about. 

 Until next week, please be safe.

Minolta Six Camera

It seems like I purchase items from camera auctions in "lots," and there is always a treasure hidden in the background that you either didn't notice at first, is hidden within all the photos of the items, or, in this case, the camera wasn't taken out of the case, and the case was obscured, so there was no visual evidence that the camera was.

 As I unwrapped the cameras won from the auction, one brown case caught my eye. It bore a striking resemblance to the Mamiya Six in my collection. But upon closer inspection, the name 'Minolta Six' was revealed. I initially thought it might be similar to the Mamiya Six, but the truth was far more exciting, as I'll reveal when I introduce the camera.

History:

In an earlier post, I did on the Minoltaflex CDS, I did a brief history of the company, which read, 

Kazuo Tashima founded Minolta in Osaka, Japan, in 1928 as Nichi-Doku Shashinki Shōten, which means Japanese-German Camera Shop. In 1931, the company updated its name to Minolta, which stands for Mechanism, Instruments, Optics, and Lenses by Tashima. In 1937, the company was reorganized as Chiyoda Kogaku Seikō, K.K. They are now introducing their first Twin Lens Reflex (TLR) camera, the MinoltaFlex, based on the German Rolleiflex cameras. The MinoltaFlex was only the second TLR introduced from Japan after the Prince Flex by Neumann & Heilemann. In 1947, Minolta introduced rangefinder cameras like the Minolta-35, and in 1959, the Single Lens Reflex (SLR) SR-1 camera. In later years, they signed agreements with Leica and came out with the first autofocus SLR, The Minolta Maxxum 7000, which carried on to several in their autofocus system.

 To expand slightly from the above text, in the early years, there was a big German influence on the Minolta company, which was known as Nichidoku Shashinki Shōten, which means Japanese, German camera shop. In the early years, the company received help from camera technicians Billy Neumann and Willy Heilemann, and the shutters and lenses were supplied from Germany. Their first camera was the Nicarette, which was released in 1929.

In 1931, the company was transformed into a stock corporation named Molta Gōshi-gaisha. Molta is an abbreviation of Mechanism, Optics, and Lenses by Tashima. Neumann and Heilemann left the company in 1932, returning to Germany to start their own company, and the German influence left with them. In 1933, the name Minolta was adopted. In 1937, the company became Chiyoda Kōgaku Seikō K.K and expanded the production of cameras into TLR and press cameras similar to the Plaubel Makina. 

Minolta Six in the July 1938 catalogue and price list by Asanuma Shōkai. Scan by A. Apra. (Image rights)

 In 1940, the famous Minolta Rokkor lens was produced, but it was only used for the military. Consumer camera production ended in 1943 to concentrate on the war effort. Three of its four plants were destroyed by Allied forces during WWII. Soon after the war, Minolta released the Semi Minolta III, and throughout the 1950s, Minolta expanded its line of cameras to include folding cameras, TLRs, SLRs, and rangefinder cameras.

 In 1958, the SR-2 was released, and it was Minolta's first system camera. This reign of SLR system cameras included partnerships with Leitz in the 1970s, which helped produce CLE cameras. Minolta had a full line of autofocus cameras, the Maxxum line of bodies and lenses, and Minoltas final SLR camera ended in 1995 with their X-370.

 Minolta produced many different 35mm, APS, and DISC cameras and partnered with Konica in 2003, but by 2006, the camera company had discontinued camera production and relied heavily on the copier business.

My Camera:

Opening the case and looking at the camera for the first time, I was surprised by the Minolta logo and text on top. Since it was made in 1936, it has a genuine Art Deco design in the look and feel of the camera. My biggest surprise was when I initially pulled the lens out from the body and found the camera didn't have a cloth bellows. Instead, it has a series of stacking cubes that pull away from the camera body, AND these boxes are reinforced with another Art Deco element, metal brackets that resemble an "M" when the camera is laid on its back with the lens pointing up. WOW, Just a fantastic design.

The Minolta Six camera measures 6 inches in width, 4.75 inches in height with the finder up, 3.75 inches with the finder closed, and 4 inches in depth with the lens out, or 2.25 inches with the lens closed. It weighs 1 lb. 5.7oz. without the case or loaded with film. The camera's body is made from a bakelite or plastic material, covered in a high-quality leatherette.

 To pull the lens out to take photos, there are two grips, one on either side of the lens, that you grab onto to pull the lens out and away from the body. You need to expose three stacking cubes before the camera is ready to take the photos. Under the lens are two curved chrome bars you can slide down to prop the camera up so that when the lens is out, it doesn't tip forward and keeps the lens level.

Around the top of the lens is Patents-Nippon, and below is Crown, which is the shutter on the camera. The actual lens is an 80mm f5.6 Coronar Anastigmat Nippon lens. Around the lens is a manual focus ring that focuses from under 1 meter to infinity. The focus line to judge distance is a protruding tab with a line at approximately 10 O'Clock on the lens face. The lens also has a stopping screw that prevents the lens from rotating past the infinity mark on the tab.

 

My camera has only four shutter speeds: 1/150, 1/100, 1/50, and 1/25, along with "b" and "T" for timed exposures. On the top of the camera is a pop-up viewfinder with etched or lined crosshairs to line up horizontal or vertical subjects as needed. The back of my camera sports three red windows with different numbers, which are used to line up with the number on the paper backing to get to the proper frame number. In later cameras, they went to a single window system, which is more common with current 6x6 format cameras using 120 film.

 

To open the back of the camera, there is a latch behind the strap on the left side with an arrow pointing down. Slide the button down, and the camera's back opens. The chrome winding lever was used on the older models. Later they went to a plastic or bakelite knob in the later models. My first thought when I looked at the back of the camera was that it was not a full-frame 6x6 camera, but that was because I was looking at the retracted plastic cubes from the bellows. It is indeed a full 6x6 format camera. Load the film on the right side and bring the leader to the left to take up the spool. The knobs on the bottom of the camera pull out so you can put in the film and take up the reel easily.

 The case for my camera is in great condition. There's a pretty cool instruction tab on the inside of the case, which was made for the three window cameras.

 The crown shutter doesn't have a cocking mechanism. There's just the shutter release to take the photos. I loaded the film. I pulled out the cube below and started to take pictures of the neighborhood with my trusty light meter. Once I reached the end, I unloaded the film and processed the negatives.

My Results:

Here are some of the photos taken with the Minolta Six camera. The photos were a bit flat in exposure and contrast.

Conclusion:

I enjoyed shooting with the camera, but I am still primarily impressed with the innovative and beautiful bellows system in the camera. Not only is it functional, but it is very light and tight and only wears out slowly compared to the style bellows. The flip side is, if something happens to this bellows, the replacement is hard to replace due to the material. I wished there were faster shutter speeds, but I was using 125 iso film, and with the aperture range of the lens, I didn't have an issue.

 I have a great and fun camera for next week's blog post, so I hope you'll stick around to read that one, too. Thank you for your time, and please be safe until then.

Update:

According to Andrea Apra, who corrected and let me know initially, a small cardstock table was provided with this camera. This table was used to calculate the Depth of Field. The card I have in the case with the wrong translation is just instructions for using this table provided with the camera, which I don’t have.

The table has a horizontal scale at the top with the various distances on the focus ring: 7, 5, 3, 2, 1.5, 1 Mtr.

Then, on the vertical column, the diaphragm has various apertures: F 5.6, 6.3, 9, 12.5, 18, 25.

Two pairs of values, the minimum and maximum distance of the DoF, are intersecting at the table's intersection.

This explains how to read the table.

This is the text translated in its original graphic structure of the text.