Bussox-Sport Luxe Camera

he Bussox-Sport Luxe camera is another beautiful camera purchased at the Paris flea market when my wife and I traveled there this past summer. While visiting one of the hundreds of stalls within many buildings comprising the Paris flea market, I found a wonderful gentleman with a case of cameras and other photographic items for sale. 

My Bussox-Sport Luxe Camera

As I mentioned in many of my previous blog posts, I love cameras that are colorful or unusual. Maybe they are toy cameras shaped like a soccer ball or a cartoon character. I own many colored box and folding cameras that are different from ordinary black box or folding cameras. That's what drew me to this wonderful, small, and odd camera.

 Within the stall, there was a case containing a group of glass negatives, the Zeiss Super Nettel that I previously wrote about, and this lovely exotic brown camera, which looked very familiar but had a name that I wasn't familiar with. I purchased all the items and went on my way to find other treasures.

 When I returned to the hotel, I took the brown bakelite camera from its case and did some more research. I found out the camera is called Bussox-Sport Luxe, made by Ruberg & Renner and explicitly exported to France from their factory in Germany. Also, looking at the back of the camera, it appeared to have a roll of film still in the camera, and the number on the frame was four, so with any luck, I could process the film and find other photos that might interest me.

The Company:

A few years ago, I wrote a blog post on a different Ruberg & Renner camera, and at that time, there needed to be more information regarding the company. In that post, I wrote: The Ruberg cameras were manufactured by the Ruberg & Renner company, located in the Delstern district of Hagen, Germany, during the 1930s.  The company was started in 1918 by Josef Ruberg, who originally started producing drive trains for bicycles, motorcycles, and automobiles. After 1930, the company began making simple cameras. In 1931, Josef obtained a patent for constructing a simple camera in Germany. He also received a patent in the United States in February 1932.

 The patent application states that the simple and very inexpensive production of all the camera parts from synthetic resin, which was done from a single pressing process, "makes it possible to place a cheap camera on the market that is affordable to all. " In the 1930s, Ruberg & Renner manufactured four models with 25 designs for export to the USA, Great Britain, and France. The cameras' construction ended in the mid-1930s when the company started producing products to help the German war effort.

 After doing some digging, I came up with the following: Along with cameras, chains remained the company's main business. From 1935 onwards, the series production of ammunition belts marked the end of camera production in Hagen, which shortly afterward followed. 

 Josef Ruberg had designed new metal cartridge belts for machine guns in 1917. The Treaty of Versailles banned the production of automatic weapons and accessories from 1919 to 1935. In February 1936, Ruberg & Renner applied for a patent for a metal cartridge belt for the MG 17 (caliber 7.92x57 mm). These specialized units are equipped with ammunition for machine guns and military equipment in the military air force. The sons also worked in the company. Felix (1909-1994) was born in 1937 in Delstern. It manufactured on-board gun carriages until the beginning of 1945. In 1941, his son Werner (1912-2005) took over the management of the Ruberg & Renner chain works.

 Ruberg & Renner continued producing drive and transport chains in 1947. The Felix Ruberg metal goods factory manufactured household appliances. From the early 1950s, Ruberg & Renner promoted cycling and motorcycle sports. Roller chains were used in particular here. Until 1967, the company, like the Schweinfurt Torpedo Works and Fichtel & Sachs, had its racing teams in the Federal Republic. In the following years, the firm of the US-American company Rexnord was taken over. Rexnord Kette GmbH relocated its production from Delstern to its current location in the Lennetal near Fley in 1982. Much of the historical information comes from the Westfalen Museum.

My Camera:

My Bussox-Sport Luxe camera is 3" tall, including the winding knobs, by 3 5/8" wide, by 1 5/8" deep with the lens retracted and 2.5" deep with the lens away from the body and focused to the closest focus distance, which is 1 meter. The camera weighs 6.1 oz, which is very small and compact, and takes 127 rolls of film, producing 1.25" by 1 5/8" sized negatives. On my camera, it's etched by the previous owner 4x6 1/2 in many different places.

To open the camera to load the film, a chrome button is on the left side of the camera if you're holding it to take a photo. Press the chrome button, moving a brass grip from holding the door closed on the camera. There are a couple of "thumb grips" on both the back door's top and bottom, which you hold onto to open the back. The back door doesn't come off the camera as it's hinged, and the door swings to the right to open.

On many cameras, to load the film into the camera, you pull up the tabs that hold the spool into place, which I tried, but the knobs didn't move. You need to turn the knobs which make you think you're unthreading them. By doing so, the knobs move away from the body of the camera, and you can load a roll of film or move the empty spool into the take-up position. The fresh roll of film goes into the camera's right side and you pull the leader to the left side where the take up spool is. This is backward to many cameras, or the many that I use, as the take-up spool is generally on the camera's right side.

Now that the film is loaded into the camera, it's time to take photos. The camera has a straightforward meniscus lens. There is a knurled collar around the lens that you need to turn in a clockwise motion to extend before taking a photo. The lens barrel is on a helicoid, which extends the lens when the knurled ring turns, much like on a bolt.

 For the shutter, two settings are located in the upper right of the lens and include settings "I" for instant or turn the wheel to "T" for time. Below the lens are the aperture settings. On this camera, since it's for the French market, there is Grand for the widest setting and Petit for a smaller aperture setting. One of the settings is Ferme, which means firm. When the aperture is set at Ferme, it does not open over the lens or block all light from reaching the film. 

Focus control on Bussox-Sport camera

Since there is no lock for the shutter, the shutter release in the 7 o'clock position on the lens can fire at any time when pressed. Whether the lens is out or in, the shutter will fire. This setting is similar to a lens cap, and by putting it in position, if the shutter fires, no frame will be exposed to light or wasting film. The photographer would need to consciously set the camera into and out of this setting every time they put it into the case or pocket, then change it when taking a photo.

To retract the lens to put it back into the camera case, you turn the knurled ring counterclockwise, and the lens retracts into the camera body. I can now understand the "Ferme" setting, as many of the negatives on the roll in the camera when purchased were exposed with the lens in the retracted position, as you can see in the results area on the post.

The results:

As mentioned, the camera had a roll of 127 Agfa film, so I walked in front of my house and took photos of a planter box and some trees in our neighborhood. There were only about four photos left. After taking the photos, I went home and processed the film. It didn't surprise me, but the images within the camera didn't turn out, and the ones I did around our hose turned out barely and were extremely thin in the exposure on the negatives.

 Here are the results from the film in the camera. As I mentioned earlier, I did note that it's easy to take a photo when the lens is retracted, making the image size smaller on the negative, which you can see on the negatives.

My Conclusion:

The shutter on my camera doesn't always work, so while I'd like to put a fresh roll in it and try it again, I don't think the shutter can take it as it's barely opening and closing as it is. I'll get brave and see if I can take the front off and fix it, but it's resting along with many other cameras in my collection. I love the color and the helicoid lens system.

Thank you for taking a few minutes to look over this week's blog post. I'd love to hear from you, so let me know your thoughts and if you have any of the Ruberg & Renner cameras in your collection.

Until next week, please be safe.

 

PIC Camera

The PIC camera was on my list of cameras to review just before I returned to work after the two years lost years of COVID-19. Recently, when I looked up from my desk and saw the odd and unusual camera, I wanted to put a film into the camera, run it through its paces, and do a blog post on it. The main thing that caught my eye was the shape and size of the camera. You don't come across many round cameras with a straightforward design.

 I am trying to remember where the PIC camera came from, as I've owned it for five to six years. Like many of the other cameras I write about, the PIC camera was included in a group or "lot" of cameras purchased. I do remember when I received it; my first thought was that it was a "toy" camera, which I own many of. 

The more I examined the camera, the more I realized it was not a serious camera. It does not have the ability to set shutter speeds, aperture settings, or even focus at a specific distance. It's just a simple point-and-shoot camera made for quick snapshots, a camera you can keep in your pocket for when you travel on holidays or visit friends and family. 

The Company:

From what I can see online, the PIC camera is another camera with very little information regarding the manufacturer. There's conflicting information about the camera and who and when it was made. Some of the information I found states the camera was made in England sometime in the early 1950s by a company named Pressure Sealed Plastics Ltd. and distributed by Pic Distributors Limited.

 When I looked up information about Pressure Sealed Plastics Ltd., it was initially a London-based company. It states that the company existed from 1955 to 1966 when it was purchased. It was transferred from Peckham to Chesterfield in May 1970. Some online information also states that the company was not in London but in Southend on Sea. I'll leave it someplace in England.

In 1986, the organization was divided into two trading operations: Consumer Products and Industrial Products. The former was responsible for waterbeds. The latter took over the remaining operations and manufactured Rompa products, waterbeds, etc.

 From the information I found and posted above, I have no idea where the idea or manufacturing of the PIC camera came from. If you have other information on the camera, who designed it, or the company that made it, please let me know, and I'll change the information in the post.

The Camera:

The PIC camera is a round camera that measures 3 3/4" in diameter, is 1 7/8" deep, and weighs 3.7 oz. with a fixed focus meniscus lens. The camera has a slight convex shape on the back along with the front, but halfway into the convex shape on the front, there are two tiers of flat surface where the shutter and lens are placed. The side view of the camera resembles a spaceship or UFO.

To open the camera to load the film, there is no latch or hinge to open the back of the camera, but you slide the front of the camera from the back of the camera and pull it off. My guess is this is where the "Pressure Sealed Plastic" comes from, as it's held together by a tightly fitting front that fits onto the rear of the camera.

 The rear of the camera has nothing other than two red windows that tell you the frame number you're on when advancing the film. On the outside of the back of the camera is written, Pats. Pend. Reg Dsgn No. 870468, Made in England. On the bottom right of the back of the camera is a slot where the film advance wheel fits.

In front of the camera, you load the film via an insert that fits into that area. The insert is a place to put the take-up spoon on the right and a new roll of film on the left. There's an opening for the negative, which measures 1 3/8" wide by 1 7/16", the exposed image size on the negative. A hinged wire acts as a pressure plate to keep the film flat when loaded into the camera. The insert is removable to make loading and unloading the film more accessible.

Underneath the film insert is a metal disc that covers the shutter assembly. When I received the camera, the shutter wasn't working, and I didn't notice that the metal disc covering the shutter assembly wasn't in its correct place. When I decided to write a post on this camera, I wanted to see if I could get the shutter working. This assembly is elementary and something even the non-mechanical person I am could get working again. I popped off the disc, and the shutter has two different levers corresponding to the levers on the front of the camera. My guess is that there is a shutter lever for "T" or timed exposures and another lever, "S," for snap. Generally the second shutter setting is "I" for instant, but this one is different.

 In the middle, there is a disc on the end of a piece of thin aluminum with a hinged rivet on the bottom that has the shape of an open safety pin, but the pin part is short, so it doesn't fit into the safety part. A spring holds the lens cover assembly in the closed position. Above the lens cover are your shutter levers, which also have hinged rivets, with a more extended metal arm that is bowed in the middle to fit over the lens covering disc, and on the bottom of the arm is a slight bend that allows the arm to interact with the shutter cover assembly. On the left of the shutter cover is a lever for the "T" shutter release for timed, and on the right is "S" for snap. A spring is between these two shutter assemblies to hold the arms away from the lens cover assembly.

Here's how the different shutter levers work. When you pull down the "T" lever, the shutter assembly arm slides over and pushes the lens cover away from the lens. Holding the shutter lever down keeps the lens open for the length of time you hold the lever down. When you pull the "S" lever down, it slides the shutter arm over the  "short pin" arm and grabs the shutter cover assembly. When you release the "S" arm, the shutter arm pulls the lens cover away from the lens, and due to the short pin arm, it slides off, and the lens cover closes, making a short exposure somewhere in the 1/50 sec timeframe.

The viewfinder on the PIC camera

There is a round viewfinder on the top of the camera, which doesn't correspond to the shape or the distance you get within your photos. 

 

The Results:

I had some expired 127 film from Film for Classics, which I purchased just for these cameras to test out. I fixed the very basic shutter, replaced the metal disc covering the shutter assembly, loaded a roll of film into the camera, walked around my house, and took photos, and here are the results.

My Conclusion:

You can tell from the photos that the lens isn't very sharp. It has a very "Lomo" look to it. I didn't get to photograph something close because I felt the plastic fixed focus lens wouldn't produce tack-sharp images, but it did take pictures. It was easy to use, but I'd take nothing on holiday unless the photos I wanted to create were similar to a Diana or Holga-style camera. Overall, the camera worked, and I discovered it's relatively rare due to the plastic construction and short camera run. People ask for around $500.00 on eBay when you can find them. I'll put it back in my collection and move on to a different camera next week.

 Please comment on your thoughts on this or other cameras I've discussed. I'd love to hear your thoughts on this camera.

 Please be safe until next week's camera post.

SportShot Senior Twenty Camera

One of the first memories I have of the SportShot Senior Twenty camera was looking through McKeown's camera (bible), collecting cameras, and noticing the odd shape of the camera as I thumbed through the pages. Then, upon doing a little more digging into what made this camera special to me, a company in Australia made it, and it only existed for a couple of years. These are the cameras I desire, and these it's these items separate cameras in my collection. 

My ACMA Sport Shot Senior Twenty camera.

 Whenever I travel alone for business or when my wife and I travel internationally, I always try to find the local flea market to see if I can find items that are rare in my part of the world. There are thousands of extremely popular Kodak box-style cameras, whether made from cardboard and leatherette covered or the bakelite cameras you see in every corner of the world. When I first started collecting, I would snatch up any camera because they were a "camera." But as time goes on and I see more of the odd and unusual items, I increasingly appreciate them.

I traded the SportShot Senior Twenty camera about a year ago for some items I had from a dealer who frequents the US occasionally from Australia. The trade happened at a camera show near to me. I got the SportShot Senior Twenty camera. I picked up a few other cameras from Australia, like the red Swiftshot and the Lexa box camera with an excellent metal faceplate. I believe he was happy getting tradeable items he could return to Australia, as it was hard to find items here in the United States.

The Company:

The SportShot Senior Twenty camera maker was the very short-lived ACMA, which stands for Australasian Camera Manufacturers Australia. They were based in Sydney, NSW, Australia, and existed from 1948 to 1950. I've looked at many different commerce sites in Australia and cannot find anything new about the ACMA company. They were one of Australia's only post-WWII camera manufacturers producing cameras. Inside the logo on the camera where the wording Australasian Camera Manufacturers Australia is located, the words British Make are there. There must have been British backing in the company to produce the cameras. 

My best guess is that while the camera is somewhat awkward to hold and use, it wasn't very popular, and sales never caught on, so the company folded, and what was made are the only examples available today.

 Since a large part of my collection is colored cameras or cameras other than black, I like the fact that this camera came in red and green as well and had a matching plastic strap to match the camera itself. These are now on my radar for future purchases. 

My Camera:

The SportShot Senior Twenty camera is triangular or trapezoidal in shape with what appear to be wings in the back to hold onto when taking a photo. The camera measures 5.5" wide in the back and 2.25" in the front. The camera is 4.5" deep, including the lens, and is 3.5" tall with the viewfinder closed but including the winding knob. The camera weighs 13.2 oz without the strap, which I don't have for this camera. The camera has a single red window on the back and shoots 6x9 format, producing eight exposures on either 120 or 620 film.

The camera is comprised of two separate parts. The top comes off with an effortless latch on the back that is somewhat spring tensioned with a hole that fits into a small knob holding the top to the bottom of the camera. On the top portion of the Sport Shot Twenty camera is also a pop-up viewfinder, along with a very odd winding knob. The winding portion of the film advance that fits into the film roll has a triangular shape; it will fit both 120 and 620 films. 

 Because the camera can shoot both 120 and 620 films, the useability is a bit more interesting as this opens the camera's film up to different types. The downside of having the winding portion shaped as it is is that the film advance is more difficult to use, which is what I experienced when I shot a roll of film through the camera. On the top of the camera adjacent to the film advance knob is stamped ACMA S20.

The camera loading is also not the easiest thing to do. Once you have the top off, you can take the empty roll from the right side and put t on the left side where the advance knob is. When loading the film, the tricky part was the channel it slid into to keep it flat for exposure. You can't just put in the roll, slide it over the shutter, and attach it to the empty spool like you do on the majority of cameras. The SportShot Senior Twenty has a thin slot the film needs to go into to keep the film flat, as you can see in the photos.

To load the film, I put the leader into the take-up spool and rolled out a bit of film to slide it into the thin channel. It took me a few times to get it in because the channel was so thin the film paper packing would crinkle and fold a bit, along with the curvature of the channel. It wasn't an easy load, but eventually, It slid in, and I got the camera loaded. How you load the camera was another factor against it when trying to sell to the masses. You don't want to make things more complicated than they need to be.

Note the thin slot film needs to be slid into to load film.

When I went to shoot the film, I loaded it into the camera, and I went to clean the lens. When cleaning it, one of the sides pressed in. I thought, "This wouldn't work with one side of the lens, not in the right position." I turned the lens, and it unscrewed from the camera body. I pressed the lens back into place, then re-screwed it back onto the camera.

 There are only two settings for the shutter. "T" for time, where the shutter stays open as long as you keep the shutter button depressed, and "I" for an instant for everyday shooting. The lens is a 13.5cm or 135mm lenticular lens f3.5 aperture. The lever above the lens is the shutter release, and you press it down towards the lens to take the photos. The viewfinder is a simple pop-up style and closes when not in use. There are no other settings to choose a different aperture, which makes this an extremely simple-to-operate camera.

My Results:

After struggling to load the camera, I had put a roll of Ilford FP-4 in the camera and walked out in front of my house to see how it did, and here's the results.

Conclusion:

Other than struggling to load the film into the camera, along with advancing the film. Due to the shape of the advanced knob that fits into the take-up spool, it didn't grab very well, and there were several times when the knob turned, and the film didn't move, but as long as I took my time, it did advance. Maybe it would do better with 620 film since the slot on the spool is thinner, and the advance knob would fit and hold into the spool better. I'm not going to say the camera was hard to use, but it wasn't the easiest, and I can understand why people would get frustrated using it. None of the images are sharp, but some are better than others. This may have been caused by removing the lens.

 Thank you for taking a few minutes from your day to look over this review. I realize it's not a sophisticated camera, but it definitely has an unusual shape.

 I have an odd camera set for next week's post and hope to hear your thoughts on it or other cameras I've written about.

 Until next week, please be safe.